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Tuesday, November 30, 2010

posted in honor of the opening of the OSCE summit



more about this dude's crazy conspiracy theory is here, but it can basically be summed up as this: the sun and big triangles are scary, so astana must be evil. plus, the word if spelled in english looks like a scrambled up version of the word "satan" if you ignore that extra letter, the fact that the words in kazakh (астана and шайтан) are not each other scrambled up, and the fact that "astana" means "capital" in kazakh. QED.

(via kzblog)

adjusting to home

not as bad as last time, but it is still pretty jarring in a million tiny ways.



one of the american ex-pats we became friends with in taraz once said that she never had culture shock when she came to kazakhstan, but she always has it when she returns to the u.s. that seems to be how it works for me too.

drinking liberally: the eye of the storm

it's tuesday! and i'm post-kazakhstan, pre-toddler-at-home-with-me!

put that together and that means i'll be at the center city philadelphia drinking liberally tonight. everyone reading this is invited (and anyone not reading this is not):
jose pistolas (upstairs bar)
263 S. 15th street
philadelphia, pa 19102

6pm until later.
this may be your last chance for a while1 to buy me a drink and then give me a ride home.

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1- or at least until next week. but that week might be my last one, depending on what happens with the OSCE summit.

Monday, November 29, 2010

cleaning


one of the wikileak cables is about one of kazakhstan's periodic anti-corruption campaigns. the government promotes these campaigns every once in a while. the leaked cable is about one from 2009. but they seemed to be kicking off a new one just before i left the country (as evidenced by this billboard, which went up in taraz about 2 weeks ago).

anyway, the leaked cable is about whether the anti-corruption arrests were a real effort to clean up the country or whether they were more about political score-settling within the ruling elite. personally, i don't see any reason that it can't be both. maybe the powerful sic the financial cops on their political rivals who are genuinely corrupt. given how pervasive the problem is in kaz, they probably are if they are powerful enough to be a powerful person's rival. but selective prosecution of one's political enemies is itself a form of corruption. an anti-corruption campaign can easily become an instrument of corruption by giving the powerful a new tool to abuse the system.

while i was in the country i thought a lot about how a corrupt country could become a non-corrupt country. any system that is set up to fight abuses of power can themselves be abused. the culture of corruption tends to perpetuate itself. but surely there must be some way out. i'm just not sure what would work. has any country that was very corrupt ever managed to clean itself up? how did they do it?

the real harm of wikileaks

from the wikileaks FAQ page:
US authorities have said the release may put people at risk. Is this true?

Wikileaks has a four-year publishing history. During that time we have released documents pertaining to over 100 countries. There is no report, including from the US Government, of any of our releases ever having caused harm to any individual. For this release we are releasing the documents in a gradual manner, reviewing them with the assistance of our media partners.
i think wikileaks is misconstruing the potential dangers to the current leak. it's not that someone will be killed because of what is revealed in the leaked cables. it's that the leaks will damage the u.s. government's ability to engage in diplomacy in the future.

i'm often anti-secrecy when it comes to government. i think wikileaks is right that the u.s. often abuses its ability to hide information from the public and that a lot of good can be done just by shedding some light on stuff that people in power don't want to come out.

but i also think that secrecy is sometimes warranted. we want our diplomats to be able to have frank conversations with foreign leaders and to be able to send accurate accounts of what happens during these meetings to their superiors in washington. for that reason, diplomatic cables are justifiably kept out of the public eye.

so while it's unlikely that this leak will get anyone killed, it will damage the u.s.' ability to get stuff done internationally. now other countries have a major incentive to avoid dealing with the u.s., to lie to u.s. diplomats, or to serve them self-serving spins for fear that later their comments might some day end up on the wikileak site.

that being said, pete king is a moron. just because think the leak will cause harm doesn't make that leak a terrorist attack. believe it or not, the term "terrorist organization" has actual meaning that isn't just "an organization we don't like."

ADDING: what steve benen said:
Revealing secrets about crimes, abuses, and corruption obviously serves a larger good -- it shines a light on wrongdoing, leading (hopefully) to accountability, while creating an incentive for officials to play by the rules. Leaking diplomatic cables, however, is harder to understand -- the point seems to be to undermine American foreign policy, just for the sake of undermining American foreign policy. The role of whistleblowers has real value; dumping raw, secret diplomatic correspondence appears to be an exercise in pettiness and spite.

I've seen some suggestions that diplomats shouldn't write cables that they'd be embarrassed by later if they were made publicly. I find that unpersuasive. I'm not going to pretend to be an expert in the nuances of on-the-ground international affairs, but I am comfortable with the notion of some diplomatic efforts being kept secret. Quiet negotiations between countries can lead, and have led, to worthwhile foreign policy agreements, advancing noble causes.

If the argument from the leakers is that there should be no such thing as private diplomacy, they'll need a better excuse to justify this kind of recklessness.

search me

why doesn't the wikileaks cable page have a simple search field? i was trying to find out if there's anything about kazakhstan in the cables but there's no easy way to do that (though i was able to tell that none of the leaked cables came from the embassy in astana or the consulate in almaty). for all its "information must be free" zeitgeist, without an unrestricted search field wikileaks isn't making it easy for me to find what i am looking for.

Sunday, November 28, 2010

FRA sux

i´m gonna take this opportunitz to complain about how much i hate the terminal in the frankfurt airport where thez make all the u.s.-bound flights leave from these dazs. because of the heightened securitz requirements, thez shuffle all of us into the shittiest corner of this massive airport.

sometimes it is quite literallz shittz as there are thousands of people passing though here (each gate boards a trans-atlantic jumbo jet) and onlz 6 toilet stalls. last time i was here someone took a crap right in the middle of the hallwaz. that made the one overcrowded coffee shop smell reallz nice and welcoming. i spent an hour sitting there watching people step on the crap pile as thez rushed to their gates and noting that no one was bothering to clean it up.

i´ve also discovered that there are no working power outlets, which means i can´t use the overpriced wifi and instead have to put up with this overpriced kiosk where the y and z kezs are reversed. (zou can onlz imagine how manz times i tried to spell 'upzernoy' to log into this site before i finallz managed to pull it off)

of course i could leave and go to one of the nicer more mall-like terminals, but that would mean i would have to leave the enhanced u.s.-bound securitz yone, which would mean that i would later have to brave the 45 minute line to pass back to this terminal before mz flight.

anzwaz. i´ve made it out of kay. i don´t know when, if ever, i will be back. and i´m now roughlz halfwaz through mz 23 hour trip back to phillz.

oh and i´m 41. zippz! no far 41 feels a lot like 40, except it´s a lot more exhausting.

Friday, November 26, 2010

summit fever


i planned to write about this before the summit fucked up my travel plans, but this country has gone crazy over the fact that it is hosting the OSCE summit. it's the biggest deal ever! kazakhstan has never hosted a real international summit like this and it is viewed as a major feather in the country's cap.

other countries host summits now and then, and manage to get on with their lives at the same time. but the kazakhs are going totally nuts because this is the biggest thing ever and they don't want to screw it up. so instead, they are going to screw up the lives of everyone else in kazakhstan. the entire government is coming to a complete stop for the duration of the summit, and astana will be under an effective lockdown (with residents required to stay at home and people with license plates from outside the city banned from the streets). the airspace over kazakhstan will be closed (which is a big deal, KZ is the 9th largest country in the world and happens to own airspace that is right between europe and india, china and southeast asia).

the kazakhstanis are literally bending just about everything around this summit. while i was in astana i asked one particularly well connected person i met (her grandfather is in the cabinet) what will ordinary people in astana do during the summit and she said that everyone must stay home. "stay home?" i asked. "yes, it will be dangerous to go out. they could be shot for violating the curfew."

was she exaggerating? who knows? the other thing is that no one seems to have a clear idea of what they can or cannot do during the summit, what rules apply only to astana and what will happen in the rest of the country or what exactly the penalty will be if they do it wrong. but everyone knows that the government is taking this very seriously to avoid embarrassment (never mind that shooting some grandmother who decided to get some fresh air would be pretty embarrassing).

so while my flight was canceled this morning and i am allegedly on a new one at 4am tomorrow morning, there is a chance that i won't get out of here until summit fever is finally over.

also, blogger is now unblocked. i'm guessing some of the free speech criticism might have embarrassed them into lifting the ban. at least for now, i can post this post without hiding my ass!

kazakhstan's parting shot

i was planning to put up a "leaving kazakhstan" post tonight before i left for the airport for my 3:55 am departure early tomorrow morning. but then this evening i was signing a bunch of documents to prepare for my absence when our coordinator got a call. it was some americans who he was planning to meet at the airport tonight. they were calling from frankfurt and wanted to tell him that their flight was canceled and they were rebooked on a flight the following evening. the coordinator thanked them and then hung up.

as i continued to fill out forms, he told me what happened. and i said, "wait, their flight from frankfurt is canceled?" "yes," said the coordinator, "oh, is your flight on lufthansa?" in fact it is.

there's only one flight between almaty and frankfurt, and that's my lufthansa flight. if the plane is not leaving frankfurt for almaty for this american family, it means there won't be a plane to take me back to frankfurt early tomorrow morning. i called lufthansa and confirmed that my flight had been canceled. luckily, they managed to rebook me on a flight leaving the next morning, nov. 28th.

my coordinator explained that a bunch of flights into kaz were being canceled because all these presidents and big-wigs were starting to arrive for the OSCE summit. never mind that the summit is in astana, not almaty. no one can ever keep those A-named cities straight anyway.

and never mind that the summit does not begin until december 1st. if the airport is disrupted three days ahead of the summit because of big-wig arrivals, wouldn't it be even more disrupted only two days ahead of the summit?

so the long and short of it is that my long stay in kaz has just been extended one extra day. which also means that i will spend my 41st birthday sitting on a series of flights. on the plus side, it will be my longest birthday ever. because of all of the time zone changes, it will be a 35 hour day. woo-hoo?

Thursday, November 25, 2010

morning in almaty

since we arrived in almaty 2 days ago, i've been helping mrs. noz and noz jr. get set up in an apartment here. it's a temporary thing. hopefully they will be here less than 2 weeks after i leave. it is very modern and furnished (about as un-taraz as you can get). there are also all these little signs in russian taped to the wall all over the place.

this morning i bit the bullet and finally typed the one closest to where i was sitting into google translate. here is what it says:
ladies and gentlemen, a big request! Do not wave your hands is a very expensive chandeliers. Thank you in advance.
there's nothing in here remotely like a chandalier. maybe they just mean the lights? are people waving their hands at the light fixtures a major problem?

Wednesday, November 24, 2010

сау болыңыз, тараз! до свидания!! пока!!! дас-дас!!!!

after spending 11 months either living in this little city, or spending all of my time thinking about it, i cannot believe that i will leave taraz tonight. it could be for forever. i do want to return here some day to visit. when you're any place this long, a life starts to spring up around you. we actually have a few friends here, and eventually i will want to show noz jr. where he comes from. but, at best, such a visit will be years away. it's very strange to cut the cord with this place that has been so central to my life for the past year. a lot of bad things have happened here, but there are also things and people i will miss.

so tonight the whole noz family is boarding a scat plane for almaty. i will be there for two days, mrs. noz and noz jr. for (inshallah) only 10-14 days more.

and in other news, it looks like the big red dog has come through though don't expect a link here.

Saturday, November 20, 2010

so much for that first family vacation to malibu

after michael hancock's exposé and KZBlog's follow-up, the web site for kazakh-land appears to be offline.

alas, america still cries out for a kazakh-themed vacation destination.

surrending your best cards is not the way to win the battle

i've been too busy playing with a toddler to follow u.s. politics all that closely while i'm here. but isn't the best strategy obvious? the democrats can hold a vote on extending tax cuts to those earning less than $200k per year, telling the GOP it's either this extension or no extension. then if the GOP thwarts the extension, the dems can blame the republicans for letting the middle class tax cuts expire, telling the public that the GOP was willing to screw 95% of the country for the wealthy few.

the tax cuts are expiring at the end of the year unless congress acts. that means the democrats, not the republicans, have the upper hand in this debate. at least they do if the democrats were willing to take it. but unfortunately that's not how the current democratic party works. there's no upper hand they won't just hand to the other side.

Thursday, November 18, 2010

second stamp day

as of today, we are finally moving our nefarious plan to step three: get everyone the fuck out of kazakhstan.

barring further delays, my extraction is currently scheduled to take place in a little more than one week. mrs. noz and noz jr. will follow me roughly two weeks after that.

Tuesday, November 16, 2010

шоколады

to the extent i thought about it before i left, i probably assumed that my chocolate habit would have to take a brief hiatus while i was away in kazakhstan. little did i know that the hiatus would have been far from brief, but luckily it is very easy to get good chocolate here than i realized. before i came here, i had no idea that russia has a fairly developed high-end chocolate industry and that the kazakhs have done a good job at emulating them.

Kazakhstan Bar

the best buy for chocolate here is the kazakhstan bar. i was initially fooled by its touristy wrapper into thinking that it would be bad. when we first arrived, the packaging looked just like the Kazakhstani flag, only with “Казахстан” written across the bottom center in russian. then in late spring the sun and bird emblem in the center was replaced by the cross-hatch in a circle that is used to represent a yurt, and “Kazakhstan” (in english) replaced the russian. i’m not sure if the language change was an effort to reach beyond the russian market to the wider world. marketing decisions aside, the chocolate is pretty good dark chocolate. it’s also fairly cheap and is on sale almost everywhere i look in this country. i've consumed more kazakhstan bars than anything else in the past year.

Astana Bar

more pricey is the gold-wrapped astana bar. the astana bar is the upscale version of the kazakhstan bar (both are produced by the same company, раххат (“rakhat”)1) and it is twice as expensive, harder to find and also very very good dark chocolate (75% cacao). and it’s yet another example of how propaganda promoting kazakhstan’s new capital has crept into virtually every facet of life here.

Alenka Bar

there’s also a wide variety of russian chocolate available. the one i like best is the Алёнка (“alenka”) bar, which mrs. noz and i generally refer to as the “scary baby bar”. For some reason, it’s really hard to find the dark chocolate version of scary baby chocolate here in taraz. but the milk chocolate with almonds can also do the trick.

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1- rakhat's slogan: "with us more tasty!"

Құрбан айт

i've come to like religious holidays the best in kazakhstan. the big public spectacles of cultural/national days were interesting at first. but after a while they all start to seem the same. kazakhstan has two religious holidays that are also public holidays: christmas on january 7th (i.e. russian orthodox christmas) and kyrban ait on whenever it falls according to the hijri calendar (i.e. 'eid al-adha). each year, the government throws a one-holiday bone to each of the two largest religions in the country.

because a good slice of the population does not celebrate each of the two officially recognized holidays (the muslims on christmas and the christians on kurban ait), there really aren't any big public spectacles associated with them. the shops close and everything just gets quiet. the people with religious reasons to celebrate do so with their family at home, while the ones who don't just relax at their homes and watch TV.

today the city is nice and quiet, just like it was on january 7th. i'm hoping this isn't the calm before another storm.

Saturday, November 13, 2010

i've never seen anything in cyrillic in star trek

personally, i'm skeptical that kazakhstan will adopt a latin alphabet any time soon. but i am glad they are considering science fiction as they decide how to do it.

khan shatyr

the baiterek tower is the official iconic symbol of astana, but khan shatyr seems to typify the place for me. architecturally it's pretty stunning. designed by a world famous architect, norman foster, it looks like a giant sweeping tent. at night it seems to glow. inside it's just as amazing, with its sweeping support structure and an artificial beach with a sand and wave pool on the top floor.

but the rest of it is just a shopping mall. if i didn't look up, i could believe i was in king of prussia. astana really is filled with western-style malls, which is a big deal in kaz. outside of almaty and astana they don't really have them. so i understand why the locals would find them so exciting. but does astana really need another high-end mall? and it just seems like a waste to fill such an amazing structure with the same shops you can see everywhere else in astana, and the u.s. for that matter (i should mention that a cinnabon is coming soon!)

the other weird thing about khan shatyr is how just the city just stops on the other side of the building. that's what happens when you quickly build a large city on a small town in the middle of nowhere. while a natural city would have rings of houses and suburbs surrounding its big-building core, beyond khan shatyr on one side, and beyond that blue bowl-shaped thing on the opposite side of the city, there is nothing but empty steppe. later i'll post a photo of the city's edge, but this is the khan shatyr post so i'll post these instead:

Khan Shatyr

Khan Shatyr at night

Khan Shatyr Interior-night 1

Khan Shatyr Interior-night 3

The Beach 2

Friday, November 12, 2010

dear leader

after sleeping for only a few hours, i woke up early yesterday anxious to wander around the city. and wander i did, for ten hours straight, all the way to the pyramid. but more about that later.

i didn't really know where to go, but there was an important-looking building visible right outside my hotel so i went there first. it turned out to be the first residence/office of the president of kazakhstan in astana. he lived/worked there from when the capital was relocated here from almaty until 2004, when he got an even fancier place built. it's now the museum of the president of the republic of kazakhstan.

as one would expect, it was pretty glowingly positive about the guy. at one point there was a display of a stack of books about the president and the atken book was front and center, that gives a pretty good idea of the tone of the museum. it was still interesting to see. nazarbayev is a fascinating guy. but a lot of the museum were just display after display of honors and presents given to the president from foreign dignitaries. my favorite parts were:

(1) among displays of lavish presents from foreign leaders was a lavish present from the CEO of mobile oil.

(2) there was this room with a series of medals that presidents and monarchs seem to hand out to each other. most of them had lofty titles like the "medallion of st. something-or-other" presented by queen elizabeth. the one presented by the president of hungary was called: "the big cross with chain". it probably sounds better in hungarian.

first impressions

the left bank of astana was pretty dazzling as i taxied into town at 3 am yesterday morning. the bright lights and ambitious buildings were about as un-taraz as anything i have seen in kazakhstan. as i road in all i could think was: so this is where all that oil money is going.

Wednesday, November 10, 2010

the crazy thing is this stuff doesn't sound that crazy anymore

google's mistake almost causes an armed conflict between two countries, one of which doesn't have a military.

Tuesday, November 09, 2010

astana!

DSCN1065
we've spent the last week basically just waiting around here for the dog that (hopefully) won't bark. we got one week to go and i'm going crazy waiting. so i booked a quick trip to kazakhstan's gleaming new capital that i've heard so much about.

before i arrived in kaz, i had the impression that astana was some kind of boondoggle, a city built in the middle of nowhere, just a vanity project for a president with too much power and too much oil wealth. but the people here seem to be uniformly proud of the city, and quite a lot of young people (who are disproportionately the ones i speak to as they are the ones who know english) want to move there. that's probably a reflection of the ubiquitous pro-astana propaganda.

okay, i've basically written this post already. crap, i even used the same picture. but this time is a little different. tonight i'm going. maybe i'll have something different to write once i get there.

continuing to voice my beef against the SSoT list

once again we see that a country's inclusion or exclusion on the DOS's list of state sponsors of terrorism is more about politics than who actually sponsors terrorism. in this week's episode we see a country's inclusion being used as a bargaining chip to get it to hold a referendum that it promised to hold in a US-brokered peace agreement. whether the referendum occurs or not, of course, has nothing to do with whether the sudan sponsors terrorism. it has everything to do with whether the country does what the US wants it to do.

to be clear: i also want the sudanese referendum to happen (i don't think it will, but that's another post). but i think that it is stupid for the US to continue to pretend that its list of state sponsors of terrorism really is what it claims to be. it's really just a list of countries that the US wants to impose sanctions on. because the "sponsors terrorism" label triggers certain sanctions, the US government maintains this stupid fiction. but to the best of my knowledge, no country has ever been added to the list because of a specific terrorist act that it sponsored.

Friday, November 05, 2010

nazarbayev and the making of kazakhstan

it’s hard to talk about kazakhstan without emphasizing the importance of nursultan nazarbayev, the republic’s first (and in its twenty years of independence, only) president. at the same time, it’s also easy to over-state the role of nazarbayev. for while this country is not exactly a democracy, nazarbayev doesn’t fit the role of a strongman dictator either. he has a lot more power than a president in a western country, but largely due to his own self-restraint, he at least tried to give the appearance that some semblance of democracy exists in this country.

also, unlike the leaders in other autocratic countries that i have visited in the past, president nazarbayev is genuinely popular in kazakhstan. in 2003, i spent two weeks traveling around uzbekistan trying to find a single person who did not hate their president, but was unsuccessful. in kazakhstan, just about everyone supports the president and most seem to have genuine admiration for him. while people i speak to will acknowledge that their president has made some mistakes, they will also point out that he has been far better than the other central asian leaders (which is setting a pretty low bar). nazarbayev seems to have even earned the admiration, or maybe jealousy, of citizens of the surrounding former soviet republics. when i first told a friend of mine from uzbekistan that i would be returning to central asia, to kazakhstan, the first thing she said was: “they have a very good president.”

NN-3 (flag)

with that in mind and his face or quotes from him on roughly 30% of the billboards i see, it’s hard not to be intrigued by nursultan nazarbayev. on her last trip back to the u.s., mrs. noz brought jonathan atken’s Nazarbayev and the Making of Kazakhstan back to taraz with her. by the time i arrived, she was done with the book, so i got my chance to read it.

the book is an authorized biography, which probably is the source of its major weakness. the book’s tone can only be described as “fawning” as it recounts how time and again nazarbayev is faced with a problem and then he shrewdly makes the perfect judgment call. after a while, it really gets to be too much.

the book does not claim that nazarbayev is always right; it does acknowledge that he has made mistakes. but atken always paints these mistakes in a pretty positive light. when nazarbayev mistakenly believed that russia would protect kazakhstan’s economic interests when the two countries still shared a common currency in the years after the collapse of the USSR, the book labels nazarbayev’s miscalculation as being “the triumph of hope over experience.” as atken recounts the story, it wasn’t a lack of judgment for nazarbayev to not know that if russia’s and kazakhstan’s economic interests diverged, russia would favor its own interests, the mistake was due to the kazakh president inclination to trust people too much and to deal more open and honestly with other world leaders than the nasty world of international diplomacy required. atken spins a serious miscalculation into a lesson that nazarbayev is too good for the dirty world of international diplomacy.

plus, it looks like the few mistakes that are mentioned in the book are only the mistakes that president nazarbayev himself has acknowledged. atkens primary source appears to be president nazarbayev himself. the book was based on 23 hours of interview with the president. each time the book discusses a mistake, there is a quote from nazarbayev acknowledging the mistake. a book that attempted a little more rigor might have looked at nazarbayev’s life with more of an independent critical eye, maybe trying to see the mistakes that nazarbayev himself didn’t point out to the author. but maybe that would require more independent thought than nazarbayev would tolerate in an authorized biographer.

of course, atken didn’t just interview nazarbayev. he also was given access to an impressive number of other kazakhstani figures, as well as international figures like mikhail gorbachev and margaret thatcher. but at least with regard to the kazakhstanis, it’s worth keeping in mind that directly criticizing the president, especially on the record, would invite legal jeopardy.

atken also really downplays kazakhstan’s human rights problems. he claims that nazarbayev has allowed bloggers critical of the government to flourish when, in fact, kazakhstan recently passed a new online media law that did just the opposite. in fact, this blog is blocked in kazakhstan (as are all blogspot blogs and all blogs that use the livejournal platform, the most popular blog platform in the russian blogosphere). near the end of the book, atken writes “there are no political… prisoners in Kazakhstan” which is objectively untrue. i would put up a link to prove my point, but i can’t because the sites showing otherwise are currently blocked to me.

another flaw with the book is the almost total absence of the other central asian former soviet republics. for a book that talks so much about foreign policy, you could easily believe that kazakhstan’s only neighbors are russia, china and (oddly enough) the US. on a single page, the book makes only a small nod to the existence of the other stans, claiming that “Nazarbayev is given credit for being a moderating influence in solving the endless disputes over borders, transport routes, trade tariffs, terrorist threats, drug trafficking, religious extremism and wider security issues [in the other central asian former soviet republics].” but then it just says “[i]t would take another book to chronicle Nazarbayev’s dealings with his fellow regional leaders and their often erratic regimes.” oh well.

the book ends by stating: “it has been said that the difference between a politician and a statesman is that the former is focused on the next election, while the latter plans for the next generation.” atken then writes that “Nazarbayev does both[.]” and yet he does not raise the very real concern i have heard from people in kazakhstan about what will happen with the next generation. nazarbayev turned 70 this year, in a region where male life expectancy is around the early 60s. obviously, the president is getting first world medical care that a lot of kazakhstanis do not have access to, but people are definitely concerned about who will succeed nazarbayev. that concern is related to nazarbayev’s genuine popularity. people think he is an exceptionally good president, but that means it can only go downhill from here. they look at their neighbors, most recently to the chaos and ethnic violence in kyrgyzstan, and fear that they are looking at their post-nazarbayev future. more than one kazakh has predicted that the country may fall apart after this president. as far as i can tell, nazarbayev has done nothing to reassure the population about succession. there is no heir apparent. up and coming politicians are potential threats to the current president and (needless to say) do not get any support from the top.

despite its flaws, it was interesting to read nazarbayev’s life story, even a version of the story that is so uncritical. he really is an intriguing figure who has done a remarkable job with this country. i was amused to read in the early part of the book, about when nazarbayev was a young technocrat, just starting to claw his way up the soviet hierarchy, and he defeated his first political opponent, lazar katkov, secretary of the communist party in temirtau (the city where nazarbayev was living). after messing with nazarbayev, katkov ended up in political exile, reassigned to “an obscure administrative position in the Dzhambul region.” the capital of that backwater dzhambul region is now called taraz, the city where mrs. noz and i have mostly called home for the past 10.5 months. i was also semi-surprised to learn that “nursultan” is nazarbayev’s original first name, as it means “light/splendor of the leader/sultan” in kazakh (and arabic too). i had wondered if he adopted the name when he became president, or maybe when he went into politics. but no, i guess his parents were a bit prescient.

while reading “Nazarbayev and the Making of Kazakhstan” its fawning tone reminding me of another book i read a little over one year ago: christopher robbin’s Apples are from Kazakhstan. that book was not supposed to be about nazarbayev, but turned out to be after the author met the president and was invited to travel the country with his official entourage. “Apples” has exactly the same over-the-top praise for nazarbayev that i see in atken’s book. because both authors spent a bit of time with the president, i wonder if the similar tone reflects nazarbayev’s real charisma. by all accounts he has a remarkable ability to win over people. maybe the more critical biography i am hoping for cannot happen until after the nazarbayev era, when someone can tell his compelling story without being taken under his spell.

ethnic-based mosques

the local controversy over ethnic-based mosques runs counter to the way things usually play out in the middle east. in the middle east, political islam is often a force for cross-ethnic unity, whereas ethnic-nationalism tends to be championed by secularists. for example, in syria, the islamists forces tend to be sunni whereas the secular/arab nationalist baathists are led by the alawite al-asad family. that's because the religious majority in syria is sunni. in contrast, in iraq, the majority is shia, which is why in prior to the 2003 american invasion the arab nationalists/baathists were dominated by sunnis and christians, while the islamists in that country were mostly shia.

in kazakhstan, that pattern doesn't seem to apply. i wonder if it is because of the relative religious freedom here, coupled with the kazakhstani government's strong stance against ethnic nationalism. the mosque may be one of the few places where nationalistic sentiment is free to come out. the fight over what language the imam delivers the sermon may be viewed as a proxy fight reflecting the ethnic frustrations that are otherwise stifled.

Wednesday, November 03, 2010

11/2/2010

november 2, 2010 will probably be remembered by most of my friends as a disastrous day. but i'm probably going to fondly remember it as VK day.

i guess in imposing all those stupid stressful delays on us over the past year, the powers-that-be did us one favor: they saved november 2, 2010 for us!!!

woo-hoo?

Tuesday, November 02, 2010

УРА!!!

the ayes have it.



it's about fucking time.