yesterday, i went to the krak des chevaliers, a massive crusader castle that sits high on a bluff near the lebanese border. the castle is in amazing shape. it's in such good condition, in fact, that a jordanian film crew was filming there. and so we wandered through the castle, tripping over power cords, squinting in the bright lights and nodding to bored-looking extras who were lounging around in their nuns' habits, fiddling with their turbans, or pretending to impail each other with their swords.
the guide books say visiting the castle is like a trip back in time. maybe, but did they really have gaffers back then?