i'm crammed in a microbus just setting off for cairo from alexandria. after hearing me speak to the driver, the guy next to me asks, "why did you learn arabic?" "it is an interesting language. i began because i like to travel, but now i like it for it's own sake" i said. "which is interesting to you, arabic language or culture?" he asked. "both. you cannot separate one from the other. you cannot understand the language without the culture as a context and the culture influences the language." "i am sorry," my seatmate said, "but you are wrong."
ten minutes later, he asked again, "which is better, arabic language or culture?" and i gave him the same answer again. "do you like egypt?" he asked. "yes," i replied, switching to arabic, "egypt is sweet." "no, it once was great, but now it is filled with stupid people." outside a car horn honked as a man rushed in front of a car. "see?" he added.
still later, he pointed towards one of the cotton fields out the window. "near here is where matthew came to preach. you know the apostle matthew?"
near the end of the trip he said, apropos of nothing: "egypt is a mess because the people lie. you understand?" he asked me. i mumbled something like "people lie everywhere." "no," he said, " people lie here. they come with a new book that is all lies. why do you need a new book?"
