Saturday, September 20, 2003

in the fergana airport

this morning i flew from fergana to tashkent. the flight was at 6:45 a.m. so i had to wake up at 4:30. when i got to the airport and put my pack through security, they noticed the curved knife i bought in samarkand and told me (in russian, but i got the idea) that i would have to check my bag. i left my pack with the security screening guy and was led onto the tarmac with the other passengers.

outside, beyond the parked planes was a beautiful vista of snow-capped mountains. i realized that i was about to leave the fergana valley and had not gotten a photo of any snowy mountains. but when i raised my camera to my face a soldier yelled at me. behind me i heard a russian accented voice say in english "those mountains are a military secret." i turned around and saw a slick well dressed man. he reminded me of a russian gangster. the man was from georgia ("tblisi?"? i asked. "very good," he replied. "you don't sound like you are from atlanta." i said) but he lives in tashkent. he said he was in fergana on a business trip and was surprised to find out that i was traveling alone. he told me i should visit georgia. "is it safe there?" i asked. "maybe go with a friend," he replied. "to abkhazia?" "i would not recommend abkhazia."

we were led across the pavement to the stairs leading up to the plane. as i neared the stairs, a cart drove by carrying the checked luggage. my bag was not on the car. i pointed to the back of the cart and said "i am pissed off!!! where the fuck is my backpack!" in international sign language (i jumped up and down, made a lot of noise and drew a backpack in the air with my hands). the driver got the message, dropped the luggage and drove the cart back to the terminal. everyone else got on the plane but i waited at the base of the stairs with the woman collecting tickets. i held up one finger to say "please wait one minute" and stood with her hoping she would wait. eventually, the cart drove back towards us with my pack in the back. the driver handed my bag to me (apparently, no one told him i was not allowed to carry it aboard for security reasons) and i boarded the plane.