we arrived here this morning. it's israel's biggest city, but there's not much to see. there are a couple of museums (mostly closed now) and some plaques about some of the fighting that took place here in '48. other than that, there's just the beach and i don't like sitting on beaches.
it's interesting to see the differences between the various israeli cities. in retrospect jerusalem seems very arab. the trilingual signs have mostly disappeared here. aside from the official road signs, all the writing is hebrew and sometimes english. i only heard arabic on the street once, it's much less common than american accented english, french or german, at least in this part of town. tomorrow we're going to jaffa, and it's shabbat. so that may change my perspective a bit more.
on the other hand, of all the israeli cities we've seen, tel aviv seems pretty livable. that it is, it seems like a real city, with grime and neighborhoods and stuff. i like big cities, and this is the only city we've encountered here that actually feels like a city.